About Shampoo Bars
Brief history of shampoo
The word shampoo comes to us from the Hindi word "chaampo" meaning "to knead or press" and was a form of head massage. In the 1800's an enterprising Indian barber opened an exclusive spa in Brighton, UK and became known as the “shampoo surgeon” to the King of England. In the early 1900's, the first commercial liquid soap made of detergents was invented. But before that shampoo was made of shredded soap, herbs containing naturally sudsing saponins, and scented floral waters. Recently, there has been a move away from detergents like SLS and new interest in natural products like shampoo bars, soapnuts, amla, and shikakai.
What is the difference between a shampoo bar and liquid shampoo?
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A shampoo bar is a solid soap formulated specifically for washing the hair.
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Shampoo bars like mine are a true soap. They are made using oils and sodium hydroxide, usually with fragrance and sometimes with other ingredients like herbs. The use of sodium hydroxide, or lye, is necessary to convert the oils into soap and is not present in the finished product.
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There is another kind of shampoo bar made with the same synthetic ingredients used in liquid shampoo (SLS and SLES, propylene glycol, Cetearyl acid, etc.) so if a customer is purchasing a shampoo bar in hopes of avoiding those ingredients, they should check the labels carefully.
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Note: I’m not suggesting which kind is “better”, just mentioning that both exist and customers don’t necessarily know which one they are buying. I’ve heard good arguments in favor of both kinds, and it is a matter of personal preference to use one or the other.
Why are shampoo bars popular now?
There are more artisan soapmakers than ever before who make innovative products. The big companies are following their lead and promoting shampoo bars. People are talking about them on blogs and forums. There is a desire for a more “natural” product and simplicity. More people are concerned about the environment and look for products with minimal packaging. Some customers have had better results with shampoo bars than with their old shampoos. Shampoo bars are now one of my best-selling products.
Why would I want to switch to a shampoo bar?
The reason many people have switched to using my product is they wanted to avoid the SLS and SLES that is present in commercial shampoos. (But do check the label – as I mentioned above, there is a type of shampoo bar that does contain these ingredients).
Beyond that, I believe there are several other good reasons to switch: Ease of use, less expensive, easily portable (no TSA hassles at airport security!), effective, minimal packaging. In short, anyone who is willing to try something new and wants to simplify their hair care routine while also probably saving some money might want to consider trying a shampoo bar!
Tell me about your shampoo bar!
My own experience with shampoo bars started a few years ago when I tried a commercial variety bought at a health food store. I thought it left my hair dry and decided that I didn’t like shampoo bars. On the basis of that experience, I resisted my customers’ requests to make a shampoo bar for quite a while. Finally, I decided to experiment with it and when I had one that I thought was good, I made my husband test it first! He loved it and so now we’ve both been using it for about 3 years and it’s become one of my best-selling soaps. It starts with a water extract of marshmallow herb root (Althea officianalis). The oils that I use are olive, castor, and coconut, with a generous amount of shea butter. I add honey, which gives the soap a yellow/light brown color and increases the lather, dissolved silk and Moroccan argan oil. It is lightly scented with the essential oils of lavender, orange peel, rosemary and Ylang ylang, so it’s very fresh and unisex.
Note: Since writing the above, I have added n unscented version, another scented with lavender, rosemary, and peppermint, and a fourth type with additional herbs (neem leaf and soapnut decoctions), neem oil, and jojoba oil instead of amla. The essential oils used in it are tea tree, cedarwood and lavender.
How does it work? How do I use it?
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You wet the bar and your hair and either rub the bar directly on your scalp, or lather the bar between your hands and apply the lather to the scalp. In my experience, it isn’t necessary to pile your hair on top of your head and lather it all up, as we are used to doing with liquid shampoo: create the lather primarily on your scalp and then rinse well, allowing the water and suds to flow through the length of your hair.
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A last, optional step is to mix 1 or 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice in a pint of water and use it as the final rinse. This is because all true soap is on the alkaline side of the pH spectrum, while hair and skin is slightly acidic. The “vinegar rinse” is an old-fashioned way to return your hair to the correct pH balance and remove any dulling traces of soap.
Note: sometimes shampoo bars require a brief period of adjustment, especially if you’ve used lots of “product” on your hair in the past. If, however, your hair looks dull or feels stiff or sticky after 2 weeks of use and you have done the dilute vinegar rinse, you should probably try a different brand of shampoo bar.
Do I still need a conditioner?
You can use your regular conditioner after washing your hair with a shampoo bar, but an alternative method would be to use a small amount of good hair oil (coconut, argan, etc.), like the Herbal Hair Oil that I make.
How do I choose a good shampoo bar?
The ingredients should be clearly listed, in descending order of quantity. Buy from a trusted source or find a local soapmaker with whom you can discuss the product and get a feel for their level of expertise. Be skeptical of anyone who makes medical claims, or advertises that a shampoo bar will restore color to gray hair!
Would you recommend shampoo bars for infants?
No, I would not recommend them for children or babies because of the possibility of soap getting into the eyes which, as everyone knows, is unpleasant.